Remove the rear wheel
2. Using a 17mm deep socket with an impact wrench or hand ratchet, remove the lugnuts and set your wheels aside. If your alloys are siezed onto your brake rotors, sit down on your butt and give the sidewalls of the tires a good kick until it becomes loose. If they have siezed on, make yourself a note to add some antisieze lubricant to the brake rotor mating surface before reinstalling the wheels.

Remove the Anti-Rattle Clip
2. Using a flat head screwdriver, pry under the arms of the anti-rattle clips until they pop off. Be careful as they can pop of quite rapidly and suprise you! This will take a little bit of time to understand, but once you have got one the rest will come easily. Just take a look at the picture on the placement and my advice is to put a glove covered hand over the clip for when it pops off (otherwise you could hurt something or someone)

Remove the caliper guide bolts
3. Remove the 2 plastic covers from behind the caliper to expose the guide bolts. I just use a small screwdriver to pry them off. (You could use your fingernail, but as I'm sure you've noticed at this point everything is quite covered in brake dust).
4. Using the 7mm allen socket, remove the two guide bolts holding the caliper on. You can pull them all the way out to clean them and inspect them for proper operation.

Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor (only on the rear passenger side)
5. If you're replacing your pads before the brake pad sensor went off, you will need to preserve the existing one. Either way, disconnect the brake pad sensor from the bleeding nipple and plastic clip above the rotor. Otherwise, it will surely brake once you've popped the caliper off.

Remove the caliper and brake pads
6. Remove the caliper from the carrier. While holding the caliper, use a small screwdriver to remove the the brake pad sensor. It is just held in place with a small metal clip, so it will eventually come out. I also recommend spraying some brake cleaner in there to help loosen things up.
7. Remove the brake pads from the caliper piston and set aside.
8. Depress the piston back into the caliper. This can be done using a C-clamp, special tool you can rent at the local auto parts store, or just by hand (if you're strong enough). This is due to the fact that the caliper is further out since the pads have worn away. In order to make the new pads fit over the rotor, this step is manditory.
9. Make sure that the caliper is properly supported. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE LINES. I just used a spare floor jack since they're quite heavy, but feel free to innovate.

Remove the caliper support bracket and brake rotor
10. Using a 17mm socket or wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the carrier onto the assembly. Take it off and set it with the caliper. Take a moment to clean where the pads are held by the carrier.
11. Using a 6mm allen socket, undo the set screw on the rotor. I always spray a little PB Blast on the hub and the set screw to make things easier to come apart. Note: I recommend cleaning up the set screw and applying some anti-sieze to make things come apart easier next time.
NOTE: The emergency brake MUST be off in order to remove the rotor! Make sure it's not engaged!
12. It is most likely that the rotors will be difficult to get off so use the rubber mallet to loosen it. It may take quite a few good whacks before it will come off, but I promise it eventually will. If you're never going to use the rotor again, feel free to innovate or use a bigger hammer.
13. Clean up the hub and apply some anti-sieze to make the next brake change easier.

Clean, lubricate, and install new pads
14. Take the new pads and lubricate the mating surfaces with some anti-squeal compound. I also recommend lubricating the caliper carrier where the pads rest. If not applied, your brakes can be noisy... so go ahead and lube it up.
15. The pad with the three metal prongs goes back into the caliper piston so put it in. Make sure that you reinstall/replace the brake pad wear sensor as well (for the rear passenger's side).

Reassemble everything
16. Put the rotor back onto the hub and tighten the set screw it to 12 ft-lbs.
17. Put the carrier back on and tighten the 17mm bolts to 48 ft-lbs.
18. To reinstall the caliper, first set the other pad onto the caliper support bracket and then simply put the caliper with the other pad already installed over it. Tighten the 7mm allen bolts with the allen socket to 22 ft-lbs.
19. Using just your hands, snap the anti-rattle clips back onto the calipers.
20. Put the wheels back on (put some anti-sieze on the rotor hat if you had some trouble getting your wheels off before) and torque down your lug nuts to 88 ft-lbs after safely lowering your car.
21. Admire the finished product!

Remove the front wheel
2. Using a 17mm deep socket with an impact wrench or hand ratchet, remove the lugnuts and set your wheels aside. If your alloys are siezed onto your brake rotors, sit down on your butt and give the sidewalls of the tires a good kick until it becomes loose. If they have siezed on, make yourself a note to add some antisieze lubricant to the brake rotor mating surface before reinstalling the wheels.

Remove the Anti-Rattle Clip
2. Using a flat head screwdriver, pry under the arms of the anti-rattle clips until they pop off. Be careful as they can pop of quite rapidly and suprise you! This will take a little bit of time to understand, but once you have got one the rest will come easily. Just take a look at the picture on the placement and my advice is to put a glove covered hand over the clip for when it pops off (otherwise you could hurt something or someone)

Remove the caliper guide bolts
3. Remove the 2 plastic covers from behind the caliper to expose the guide bolts. I just use a small screwdriver to pry them off. (You could use your fingernail, but as I'm sure you've noticed at this point everything is quite covered in brake dust).
4. Using the 7mm allen socket, remove the two guide bolts holding the caliper on. You can pull them all the way out to clean them and inspect them for proper operation.

Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor (only on the front drivers side)
5. If you're replacing your pads before the brake pad sensor went off, you will need to preserve the existing one. Either way, disconnect the brake pad sensor from the bleeding nipple and plastic clip above the rotor. Otherwise, it will surely brake once you've popped the caliper off.

Remove the caliper and brake pads
6. Remove the caliper from the carrier. While holding the caliper, use a small screwdriver to remove the the brake pad sensor. It is just held in place with a small metal clip, so it will eventually come out. I also recommend spraying some brake cleaner in there to help loosen things up.
7. Remove the brake pads from the caliper piston and set aside.
8. Depress the piston back into the caliper. This can be done using a C-clamp, special tool you can rent at the local auto parts store, or just by hand (if you're strong enough). This is due to the fact that the caliper is further out since the pads have worn away. In order to make the new pads fit over the rotor, this step is manditory.
9. Make sure that the caliper is properly supported. DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE LINES. I just used a spare floor jack since they're quite heavy, but feel free to innovate.

Remove the caliper support bracket and brake rotor
10. Using a 17mm socket or wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the carrier onto the assembly. Take it off and set it with the caliper. Take a moment to clean where the pads are held by the carrier.
11. Using a 6mm allen socket, undo the set screw on the rotor. I always spray a little PB Blast on the hub and the set screw to make things easier to come apart. Note: I recommend cleaning up the set screw and applying some anti-sieze to make things come apart easier next time.
NOTE: The emergency brake MUST be off in order to remove the rotor! Make sure it's not engaged!
12. It is most likely that the rotors will be difficult to get off so use the rubber mallet to loosen it. It may take quite a few good whacks before it will come off, but I promise it eventually will. If you're never going to use the rotor again, feel free to innovate or use a bigger hammer.
13. Clean up the hub and apply some anti-sieze to make the next brake change easier.

Clean, lubricate, and install new pads
14. Take the new pads and lubricate the mating surfaces with some anti-squeal compound. I also recommend lubricating the caliper carrier where the pads rest. If not applied, your brakes can be noisy... so go ahead and lube it up.
15. The pad with the three metal prongs goes back into the caliper piston so put it in. Make sure that you reinstall/replace the brake pad wear sensor as well (for the front driver's side).

Reassemble everything
16. Put the rotor back onto the hub and tighten the set screw it to 12 ft-lbs.
17. Put the carrier back on and tighten the 17mm bolts to 81 ft-lbs.
18. To reinstall the caliper, first set the other pad onto the caliper support bracket and then simply put the caliper with the other pad already installed over it. Tighten the 7mm allen bolts with the allen socket to 22 ft-lbs.
19. Using just your hands, snap the anti-rattle clips back onto the calipers.
20. Put the wheels back on (put some anti-sieze on the rotor hat if you had some trouble getting your wheels off before) and torque down your lug nuts to 88 ft-lbs after safely lowering your car.
21. Admire the finished product!